54 hours at LCB and my primary culinary failure in the French kitchen is moderation—of salt. Apparently, I’m salt-phobic by French standards. The only dish this week passing the chef’s taste test was my Quiche Lorraine with salt-cured lardons of pork. It passed the salt taste because by day four, I was intent on using the maximum amount of salt just to avoid the “plus sel” comments from the chefs. Apparently, I don’t know what a French “pinch” of salt is.A pinch is generally close to 1/8 teaspoon measure. Julia Childs said a pinch is the amount you can pinch up between your thumb and two fingers. Check out the pictures of a French “pinch” per my copying the Chef’s example—over ½ a teaspoon compared to my usual "pinch". So, as a nutritionist I have to ask myself, do I worry the French are a hypertensive lot with salt-aggravated cardiac/stroke tendencies and possible excessive bloating? Given that most salt consumption studies indicate that about 75% of excess salt consumption is from restaurant foods or prepackaged convenience foods, as long as most of the French public is cooking at home, they should be safe (this is another whole blog—my vision of the French public as frequent home cooks is being dashed).
Apparently, the French government and several policy organizations are concerned about salt consumption in France. In 2002, the French Food Standard Agency recommended a 20% reduction in salt consumption from 10 grams per day to 7-8 grams per day over five years. The US dietary salt consumption guidelines are 2.3 grams per day maximum with current average salt consumption estimated at 4 grams per day. OK, so perhaps this explains my taste bud sensitivity to salt with the French population at well over twice what the typical American is consuming.
Overall, as a food freak and one who wants to taste the food and not the salt, I’m more concerned about excess salt masking food flavors. Salt can enhance flavors but at some point it diminishes other flavors. Salt is an acquired taste, the opposite of sugar which infants naturally are drawn to. And with salt, the more you add, the more you get used to and prefer higher levels of salt. So, the bottom culinary line is that to pass LCB tests and the program, one must Pinch French when salt is concerned.
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I think my idea of a pinch of salt is somewhere between the amounts in those two photos. I don't use too much salt when I eat, but it depends on the food.
ReplyDeleteHi Michele,
ReplyDeleteI had fun explaining the French Pinch of Salt to people at work today. They were amazed that there seemed to be no appreciation for low sodium cooking with the chefs you have encountered so far.