Sunday, November 30, 2008

Amsterdam Quickie

I wanted rijsttafel. I wanted it from the country of origin. So, off we went to the lively city of Amsterdam. Two days of eating our way through Amsterdam endeared us to several fried and baked delights, broodjes (Dutch Sandwiches), Dutch gin and our destination meal of rijsttafel.

This quickie visit included satisfying food pleasures, yet left a lingering guilt; food ruled over meaningful insight into Amsterdam culture. But a private tour did give us a nibble of history and a memorable slice of Amsterdam food culture.

We started with a “culinary” food tour. Our private tour guide, Carlota, explained the tour was “tongue-and-cheek” since Amsterdam isn't viewed as a European culinary destination. After eating Oliebollen, I may have to disagree. Who could pass by these rich “little pillows of heaven” (husband Kerry’s description), without scarfing one down and leaving a dusty coat of powdered sugar evidence on your clothes.

Oliebollen is a Dutch Krispy crème style donut without the super sugary coatings. This yeasty pillow has the appeal of a light fluffy interior with an al dente exterior and no greasy taste nor feel. Oliebollen is an appealing contrast to the typical cake style American donuts with the added benefit of some spices and dried fruits. For a recipe see the link. a recipe see the link. http://bakingfreakrecipes.blogspot.com/2005/08/oliebollen.htmlot.com/2005/08/oliebollen.html


Along the fried food themes, we also experienced croquettes at a Febo diner. Sort of a Dutch McD’s. Febo was launched in 1941 as an automatic “food-in-the-wall” delivery system. The company website lists over 50 shops in the Netherlands and is named after the founder FErdinand BOlstraat.

Our croquette had a crunchy exterior with a hot gravy meat-like filling. Perfectly acceptable for a student budget or fried food aficionados. As a dietitian and slow food support, I eat such foods as a pop-cultural food adventure, so I ate my croquette share on a dare, but passed on the burgers and fries.



Other fried temptations included street frites served typically with mayonnaise—I opted for curry ketchup. These were rapidly eaten while watching canal activity from a wooden bench—a “super bon” frites experience.



Carlota suggested we try some Herring sandwiches from one of the street stands. Herring isn’t in high season in November, but is still available. We found Henk’s Herring stand on a canal bridge and were given a soft smooth bun enveloping buttery-soft fish topped with sweet onions and slivers of pickle, just a complete wonder for 2.50 Euro.


Our guide also introduced us to poffertjes. These pancake style treats are baked over a hot cooktop in iron molds. We tried these several times and failed to get a picture because we couldn't delay the pleasure of eating hot, buttery dough puffs topped with powdered sugar. So, here's a picture from Noskos who permitted my use of it--see his recipe posted below.


The next morning we did broodjes for breakfast. Our wonderful B&B host, Paul, from rooms@bedandbreakfastamsterdam.net recommended several restaurants to fulfill our desires to eat good local food. At Lunchroom Diwi, our waitress and probably proprietress, spoke only Dutch to us, but we successfully managed to order egg broodjes with mounds of crispy yet substantive bacon topped with a perfectly fried egg hiding a soft bun. I ate the entire sandwich but hey it was really cold that day and my bodily thermogenesis to cope with the cold required more calories (I call this caloric rationalization).

We started our rijsttafel research before leaving the states by quizzing our friend Christiaan who is from Holland. Rijsttafel is a Dutch invention derived from Dutch colonization of Indonesia from 1602 to 1945. Rijsttafel (rice table) is like Indonesian tapas—small plates of mostly Indonesian influenced foods with rice.
Typically one is served 12-25 dishes including meats, vegetables, fish, satays and nuts and seasonings of coconut, peanuts, chilies, curry, lemon grass and fruits. Our first experience with rijsttafel was an event of contrasting flavors, textures and seasoning sensory overload.

We ate at a modern style rijsttafel place called Blauw (blue in Dutch). Opting to split one rijsttafel order was an exercise in gluttonous restraint and left us just enough room for desert. http://amsterdam.restaurantblauw.nl/content


We also fit in some gin tasting at a bar filled only with locals who loved our ignorance about gin and made happy, slightly tipsy comments about Obama's presidency. We had 3 glasses of gin at 1:00 in the afternoon on an empty stomach; we left the bar quite cheery and warm. Our guide ended our tour at a local bar for Belgium beer and a cheese plate with heavy dark breads. We spent 2 hours discussing culture, food and politics--the best kind of travel experience.

http://noskos.blogspot.com/2008/03/poffertjes.html
Poffertjes Recipe (abbreviated by Michele)

Sift 125 grams flour + 125 grams buckwheat flour. Proof 10 grams yeast in 100ml of lukewarm milk, make a well in flour and mix. Add 200 ml warm milk & a pinch of salt. Combine well and add 1 lightly beaten egg. Cover with plastic wrap & rest batter for 45 minutes in warm area. Heat the poffertjespan, brush some melted butter in mold and fill each halfway up with batter. When the poffertjes are dry at the edge and the bottom has a nice color turn them over until done. Noskos adds that he turns them over when part of the top is still liquid. Top with confectioners sugar.