Parsley Saves the Choke

The LCB recipe today included artichokes, but lemon, the common ingredient that protects trimmed sections of artichokes from developing dingy brown colors was not an ingredient. However, I was not concerned because I had a secret weapon—just use parsley water instead.

I got the idea to soak trimmed artichokes in parsley water from Chef José Andrés. I recently bought his book "Made in Spain". Chef Andrés is from the Andalusia region of Spain and resides in Washington D.C. where he has several successful restaurants. He has trained under Ferran Adrià (whom I met last month—have I failed to mention this several times?) and is very active in television appearances. I bought his book because many of the recipes reflect a Mediterranean-based diet. I tend to teach this type of diet, and in my own home kitchen, I usually prepare foods associated with the traditional Mediterranean diet. For a basic look at this diet, check out the link: http://www.oldwayspt.org/med_pyramid.html

In Chef Andrés’s book, he suggests using parsley in water to keep artichokes from oxidizing. I immediately had to go test this concept because I’m such a geek.

Food Science Moment:
I trimmed one baby artichoke and put it immediately into prepared lemon water the way I’d always done. Then I quickly trimmed a second artichoke and immediately placed it in parsley water. I had gently broken some of the parley stems before placing them the water to help expose the parsley cellular tissues to the water.

I waited and checked the chokes every 10 minutes until 40 minutes passed. The pictures show the artichokes after 40 minutes. Towards the end of the time, the parsley treated choke did begin to oxidize a bit on some edges, but overall I was pleased to verify the recommendation by Chef Andrés. So if you’re in a pinch to save your artichokes with no lemons in sight, pinch some parsley.

So why does this work? I currently don’t have my food science books with me in Paris, so I relied on the internet, yet could find no references or research on this topic. Although some animal studies show parsley consumption increases antioxidant capacity in the blood (now I’m wondering if my cat will eat parsley?) Anyway, I instead reviewed the antioxidant capacity of parsley and found that the percentage of vitamins that act as antioxidants and also certain flavonoids were high. Flavonoids are polyphenolic compounds (think colorful fruits and vegetables, red wine and tea as common examples) that have high antioxidant activities.

Antioxidant Density:
For two tablespoons (about 7.5 grams) of fresh parsley, vitamin K has 125mcg compared to the recommended daily value (RDV) of 80mcg. The RDV basically is the sufficient level of nutrient to meet the needs of a typical healthy person. Vitamin C has 10% of the RDV and vitamin A has 13%.

Parsley Recipe: I recommend using Italian parsley in general for cooking and eating. It is prettier (personal bias), less bitter and more fragrant and stronger scented so it holds up better in cooking.

One of my simple quick toppings for fish and certain meats is a Gremolata. I borrow from a traditional Italian approach of using Italian parsley, lemon zest and garlic. In my versions I’ve done the following:

• chopped parsley, lemon zest, chopped garlic, olive oil and sea salt


• All the above plus panko bread crumbs for a crunchy version


• Now consider any of the following substitutions: orange zest for lemon or both, adding toasted pine nuts or fried shallots adding green olives

I don’t know exact ratios since I make these based on taste, but to sprinkle on two fish filets, I’m guessing about 3 tablespoons chopped of parsley, 1 small garlic clove, 1 teaspoon of fine lemon zest and 1 teaspoon of olive oil. The last time I used a gremolata, I grilled green asparagus with an olive oil, salt, balsamic vinegar marinade and served the spears topped with a sunny-side up egg with a crunchy gremolata sprinkled over it—very Italian and great summer food.

For a link to Chef Andrés book see: http://www.josemadeinspain.com/recipes.htm

L'Ourcine Restaurant in Paris

I ate at L’Ourcine in the 13th arrondissement with friend and wanted to share a few pictures. I read about L’Ourcine in “Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City’s 102 Best Restaurants” which I’m enjoying as an entertaining and insightful guide to eating in Paris.

I also found the restaurant and mention of its Chef, Sylvain Daniere, in a recent copy of food magazine Etoile that I just purchased. I ate at L’Ourcines with a friend and wanted to share a few pictures, the menu and a mini-review.

L’Ourcine met and exceeded my personal restaurant requirements for eating in Paris http://chezrd.blogspot.com/

Here’s my French and English interpretation of our meal:

Amuse bouche of Fennel mousse with baby croutons and a refreshing hint of heat from horseradish (I ate too fast to take a picture)

(Amuse bouche of mousse de fenouil avec des petits croûtons et un soupçon de raifort)

Beef tongue terrine with a mixed greens salad

(Terrine de langue de boeuf avec salade de Verts mélangée)

Calamari sauteed served with squid ink risotto and crispy fried garlic chips (I could have eaten a cup of these)

(Chiperons poêlé minute et risotto cremeux a l’encre de seiche et "chips" d’ail croustillantes (je pourrais avoir mangé une tasse)

Filet of black mullet with crispy skin over saffron potatoes and onions

(Mulet noir filet avec peau croustillante sur pommes de terre de safran et oignons)

Legs of rabbit in a fricassee stew style with oregano, whole cloves of garlic roasted in the skin (give me 10 more) and fresh French green beans

(Fricasse de cuisse de lapins relevé a la "origan" haricot verts fraise et les clous de girofle entiers d'ail rôti dans la peau (me donne encore 10, s'il vous plaît)

Quenelles of Guarana chocolate with a saffron creme anglais and crunchy orange tuiles.

(Quenelles de chocolat guarana avec crème anglais safranée et tuile croquant de l’orange)

Confit of fennel wrapped in crispy phyllo packets and a creamy white quenelle thing that I forgot because my taste buds were concentrating on the lovely fennel confit--Mary what was it?

(Confit de fenouil enveloppé dans paquets phyllo croustillants)

I should point out (especially since I'm a dietitian) that I didn't eat all this food. My friend Mary started with the beef tongue terrine, then rouget noire and finished with the fennel confit. She and I shared nibbles of our dishes with each other and decided we would return soon.

P.S. if your French is better than mine, please feel free to offer corrections!


Mini-Review:

Service: Warm, helpful and accommodating (readily exchanged a bottle of wine that was too young/acidic for our expectations)

Food: The pictures pretty much explain it all; I did add some sea salt to my squid risotto, but I’ve been cooking for French chef’s so my “French pinch” is affecting my taste buds--to read about a "French pinch" see blog http://chezrd.blogspot.com/search/label/Techniques%3A%20Using%20salt

Ambiance: Cozy setting with tile floors and intimate without being a crowded space

Price: Priced nicely at 32 euros for 3 item prix fixe—wine separate

Coordonnées : 92 rue Broca, 13th, 01 47 07 13 65 Metro: Les Gobelins or Glaciere, open for lunch and dinner and closed Sunday/Monday

For more info on Paris food writer Alexander Lobrano, see:
http://hungryforparis.squarespace.com/

Restaurants in Paris

Periodically I will comment on restaurants, boulangeries, patisseries and other food places that I have visited in Paris. However I don’t write restaurant reviews even though I’ll share my opinions about restaurants ad nauseum to friends, family and people that ask my opinion and equally to people who don’t ask my opinion.

It really is a challenge to find good food and particularly memorable food for a value in Paris. This is why I'm starting to make notes on this topic. Before spending time in Paris, I had a food myth that good eats are plentiful at the charming cafes, bistros and restaurants of Paris. I've learned through personal experiences and those of many friends, that a little research and some luck are best if you desire a good food experience.

Here are my personal Paris restaurant requirements for a repeat visit:

1) the servers notice your presence and then serve you and are even nice or mostly nice;
2) you don’t have to raise your voice to talk;
3) the menu does not focus on traditional French dishes, and
4) offers good values for Paris.

I also do have a preference for family-owned establishments and gastro-bistros or neo-bistros with seasonal local foods.

I have been using two food guides on Paris. The first is “Hungry for Paris: The Ultimate Guide to the City’s 102 Best Restaurants” which I’m enjoying as an entertaining and insightful guide to eating in Paris. The author, Alexander Lobrano has lived in Paris since 1986 and according to the book reviews is Gourmet magazine’s European correspondent. An addition to many interesting personal stories of eating in Paris and the culture of eating in Paris, the book describes the evolution of Paris bistros and offers explanations for the declining quality of bistro foods, but offers hope for options--see link for more info: http://hungryforparis.squarespace.com/

The second food guide is the Chocolate and Zucchini guide by Clotilde Dusoulier. Her book includes restaurants, all types of food shops, cooking stores and outdoor markets plus some recipes. She is a reliable resource for food recommendations and her passion for food is contagious. See this link for more information: http://chocolateandzucchini.com/books/

I will start a list here of places I’ve enjoyed. Eventually I will post pictures and/or some additional information. I begin with my most recent meal at L’Ourcine. The next restaurant post will be about Passage 53.

Pigeon Deconstructed and Ferrous Fowl

Since pigeon shares some similarities to other small birds that are consumed, I wanted so show a few pictures of the prep involved. Here’s the bird, tiny heart and liver prior to deboning or carving it.

Here’s picture of the legs and claws. For a classic French presentation, cut off all but the longest claw, hold it as straight as possible and dip it into boiling water to clean it.

Stuff the leg with your farce (stuffing of choice) and while keeping it still straight wrap it in caul fat (see earlier post) or cooking plastic then cook it in boiling water. You then sauté the leg in a small amount of hot oil to brown the skin and serve it with the claw pointing to the sky.

Here is the dark red breast meat similar to quail in color. On the last pigeon I cooked, the breasts weighed 45 grams each or 90 grams total or just over 3 ounces. This is the quantity that the Dietary Guidelines for Americans suggests as a serving size for poultry, although they somehow they fail to include portion sizes for pigeon.

However, I believe it's more important to judge a proper serving size based on the quality of the meat in terms of saturated fat, omega-3 fats and other nutrients.

For example, since salmon is a high quality nutrient dense protein, I tend to recommend 5-6 ounces (I’m assuming of course, this portion is not battered, deep fried and served in a buerre blanc sauce).

I’m told by my chefs, that in France, 150 grams or 5.3 ounces of meat, fish or poultry is an appropriate sized serving for an entrée.

Nutritionally, pigeon is a very ferrous fowl with an iron content that exceeds beef. I checked this on the USDA nutrient database to make sure. Protein amounts are similar, but here's differences for 90 grams of the following:

Pigeon: Calories 138 / Iron 4mg / Total fat 7g / Saturated fat 2g
Chicken breast: Calories 100 / Iron .6mg / Total fat 1.2g / Saturated fat .3g
Chicken thigh: Calories 108 / Iron 1.0mg / Total fat 4 / Saturated fat 1g
Lean Beef: Calories 132 / Iron 1.4mg / Total fat 4.5 / Saturated fat 2g

So perhaps when I advise patients with iron deficiencies, we should discuss eating more pigeon or I could make it more appetizing by using the French pronounciation and suggest they eat more "roasted PeejeeOwn".

Special for the Day: "Roast Pigeon"

When was the last time you ate pigeon? Or cursed at one? Although cursing is more common, let me introduce you to tomorrow’s meal of pan-seared pigeon.

Tomorrow is my Atelier cooking test and pigeon is a main required ingredient. This ingredient does show up menus in French restaurants, yet when I go to buy one, I can’t find any at stores in my arrondissement (the 15th). However, I do find 8 different types of chicken, 2 types of quail, cocquerel (small male roosters) and pintade (guinea fowl).

Because pigeons hang out near my balcony herb garden, my husband suggested I open my balcony door and eventually a pigeon or two would fly in and “Voila” dinner. But instead I head to the charming Beauvau covered market near Place d’Aligre since I need pigeons raised for consumption. I find the bird and with friend’s help, we convince the butcher that “yes, I really want the entire bird”. The butcher really wanted to remove the guts and head for me and commented that it was more hygienic that way. I’m not sure what he thought I would do with the guts and head at home that would be unhygienic, but here’s a picture before I cleaned it.

In English-speaking countries, pigeon is found as Squab. Generally squab or pigeon are young (about 4 weeks) and have more of a red meat taste and texture. The breast meat is cooked like quail to be pink or rose looking and the rest of the meat is only enough for a quick nibble.

I’ll post a follow-up blog showing pictures of squab prep in the kitchen. Please let me know if you have fabulous ideas for stuffing such a tiny bird; I’ve been required to stuff the mini-legs before and cursed at more than just the pigeon.

Link to info on Beauveau market and other markets in paris: http://www.v1.paris.fr/EN/Living/markets/markets.ASP

Photo by MHenriot photographer

Here’s me and Ferran Adrià after taping of a TV show on France Channel 3 show “ce soir ou jamais”. Looks like I’m dubbed in since he wasn’t sure which of my cooking buddies was taking the picture. Le Cordon Bleu Paris students in the Superior Cuisine program were invited to attend this show as part of the audience.

I was fortunate to be less than 10 feet from Chef Adrià and could see him intimately express his passion for food. The television taping can be found on http://ce-soir-ou-jamais.france3.fr/index-fr.php?page=emission&date=2009-04-07. My happy face (half of it) appears most often during the taping of the chef’s section (internet link expires in 2 weeks.)

Chef Adrià’s main restaurant, El Bulli, is only open 6 months each year with the 2009 season running June through December. Reservations for the entire 2009 schedule were taken in 2008 on October 14, 15 and 16th.

While the TV station served us champagne and sweet canapés, my only disappointment for the evening was that Chef Adrià was simply interviewed; I really could have gone for some of his frozen foie gras powder.

Brief Comments on Chef Adrià and his restaurant El Bulli:

· “he's been featured on Time magazine's list of the 100 most influential people of our times.” http://www.foodandwine.com/articles/fast-times-with-ferran-adria

· World’s best restaurant 2002, 2006, 2007, 2008 (Restaurant Magazine) (http://www.elbulli.com/menu.php?lang=en)

· Over 800,000 people call or email for a table each season. http://observer.guardian.co.uk/foodmonthly/futureoffood/story/0,,1969713,00.html#article_continue

Pamplemousse and Poisson en Papillote: Part 2

Here’s the second recipe for the “Grapefruit and Cod en Papillote” post. After a French chef gifted me with a free bottle of grapefruit gastrique, I created a couple recipes with a grapefruit theme.

Cooking en Papillote typically uses baking or parchment paper to envelop fish or other meats, vegetables and spices for cooking. The fish cooks evenly in a moist environment and the paper package seals in juices and aromatic scents. The steamy environment causes the package to puff up and when you open it up, the warm aromatic scents escape and surround you.

Food History: Supposedly, the papillote cooking method was developed to honor a Brazilian balloonist at a banquet. I also found an early reference to cooking rougets (barbet-rougets or mullet) in papillotes from Brillat-Savarin from the Physiology of Taste (1825). So, clearly this is a classic cooking technique.

Food Geek Moment: Foil can be used as a replacement, but if you include a lot of acidic ingredients and spices in the packet, there is some potential for the development of harmless aluminum salts which may slightly affect flavors and for aluminum oxidation which may form small pinholes in the aluminum.

Grapefruit and Cod in Papillote
Serves 4
Fish: 5 ounce filets of cod, skin removed
Salt and pepper

Vegetables/fruit:
1 Pink grapefruit, cut in wedges plus the juice
1 small zucchini, julienned with skin
20 snow peas, blanched quickly (optional to blanch) and julienned
4 small heirloom tomatoes or 2 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced
2 medium size white or low starch potatoes like Yukon golds, sliced thin

Seasonings/Spices/Herbs (these are estimates):
1 tablespoon of minced parsley
1 tablespoon of fresh ginger chopped or zested
1 teaspoon each of mild chili powder and sweet curry powder
1 tablespoon of olive oil

1. Lay out enough parchment paper to fully wrap the ingredients and still allow for the paper to puff some.
2. Add a thin layer of the potatoes in the center of the paper, top with fish filet seasoned lightly with salt and ground pepper.
3. Mix the zucchini, peas, tomatoes together in a bowl, add olive oil and mix with the spices and zest, arrange on the filet.
4. Top with grapefruit wedges and parsley and drizzle grapefruit juice and teaspoon of olive oil over ingredients.
5. Cook for 15-20 minutes at 375F or 190C

Two Papillote Wrapping Options: Rectangle and a half-heart. For the rectangle, make sure to overlap the sides, then fold the length ends together to form a triangle like wrapping a box and tie with cooking twine. For the heart cut a large heart shape and place ingredients on only one side of the heart. Fold over and crimp the edges together. If the parchment paper is a very thin variety, double up the paper when preparing your shape.

Nutrition for each cod en papillote:
Calories: 207
Carbohydrates: 27 grams
Protein: 10 grams
Fiber: 5 grams
Sodium: 38 milligrams naturally occurring without additional added salt
Cholesterol: 53 grams

Food photos by M. Henriot photographer

Pamplemousse and Poisson en Papillote: Part 1

Dinner was at Chez Michele this weekend and I was craving cod (Cabillaud) and grapefruits. Cod because the market offerings were plump and sea-scented and grapefruits because of a compliment to a chef. Chef Gilles Poyac, Chef de Cuisine for the French Senate and winner of the Best Craftsman of France 2000, prepared a wonderful contemporary meal at Le Cordon Bleu where he used a grapefruit vinegar reduction (a gastrique). After his presentation, I told him in French how much I enjoyed the food and the grapefruit gastrique and he gave me a bottle as a gift (maybe I actually told him I enjoyed him?), after all my French does often go quite wrong. Anyway, I promised him I would use the gastrique during the weekend dinner party.

I created 2 of the 5 course dishes to include grapefruits. The grapefruits at the market were a plump, glowing bunch with a familiar look; yes, the label was Le Floride. So I purchased a couple of these exotic imported fruits and cut away the rind and then sliced some wedges. Half of the wedges were sautéed in a Spanish olive oil (fruity) and the other half were for the fish.

The Salad:
Salad greens or a loose leaf head lettuce (I used a French variety Batavia)
Grapefruit slices caramelized in hot olive oil for 1-2 minutes
Walnuts toasted or spiced (see my recipe below)
Reggiano parmesan sliced thin.

Vinaigrette Recipe:
Grapefruit gastrique, Olive oil (I used Spanish), fine minced shallots, sea salt, ground pepper

Grapefruit Gastrique: gastriques are basically vinegar, fruit or fruit juice and sugar if necessary (depends on the sugar level of the fruit and the acidity of the vinegar). I’ve not made a gastrique with grapefruit but here’s what I did with oranges recently:

Juice of 2 large oranges and equal amount of red-wine vinegar plus 2 Tablespoons of sugar.

Toasted Spicy Walnuts:
I coated my nuts with powdered cinnamon and chili plus some sea salt and a tiny bit of fresh ground pepper, then toasted them in a skillet for a few minutes, added some honey (just a fast drizzle over all the nuts), continued heating for a few minutes, added a hint of water and stirred to make sure nuts were evenly seasoned, baked at 100C or 212F until less sticky and then I let them air dry.

The Cod in Papillote is covered in the next blog posting. Picture compliments of M.Henriot photographer.

Cooking John Dory, St. Pierre and/or Zeus Faber

Here’s a picture of John Dory (St. Pierre) to follow up with the blog on using a spice rub on this fish. Some sources state the name John Dory is an English twist on the French “jaune dore” (golden yellow) tint representative of the fish.

He’s quite a dramatic fellow with 10 long dorsal fin spines that can spear and rip skin of careless fingers. He also has 4 spines on the anal fin and microscopic, sharp scales that run around the body. For tips on filleting Zeus Faber (geek speak), here’s a useful video. http://www.filleting-fish.com/john-dory.

Cooking: The flesh is a creamy-white firm-textured flesh that holds up well in cooking and complements Mediterranean flavors and spicy sauces. There is wide range of opinions on best substitutes for John Dory, but most common recommendations are dover sole, seabass, turbot and halibut and perhaps cod.

Cost and Yield:
Because of its large head (about half of its weight), this is a low yield fish of about 30. Maximum weight is around 3 kilograms (about 6.5 pounds). The price at one Paris market was 40€ per kilogram or $53 U.S for 2 pounds. A British fish distribution site had it similarly priced at 37£/kg.

Fishing: Eastern Atlantic, Mediterranean Sea, New Zealand, Australia and Japan

History (Biblical): This fish has a dark spot on its side. Several sources report the name St. Pierre as a biblical attribute. St. Peter’s thumb imprint “stuck” on the fish when he removed a coin from the fish’s which was then used to pay the temple tax collectors (Matthew xvii, 24-27). No explanation is referenced as to why the fish would have money in its mouth.

History (Biological): The dark spot evolved to look like a large eye that is flashed to intimidate prey.

Nutrition for John Dory/St. Pierre: Here’s nutrition info I could locate on John Dory, 2 substitutes and chicken breast to compare to a non-fish protein for a 5 ounce or 142g serving (a common portion size).

Sources:
http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/products/fish/john-dory/-dory/
http://www.fishworks.co.uk/N1esw7EX.php?t=cook_fish&r=john_dory&season=9

http://fpcs.fish.govt.nz/science/documents/plenary/JDO_07.pdf

We spice it up this week and venture beyond LCB kitchen staples of cayenne, nutmeg, quatre-épice, espelette and saffron. We forego the typical French recipe and spice up a John Dory (St. Pierre) filet with Satay and Tandoori spices.

During our chef demonstration, our chef generously dredges one side of his filets in the spice mix. At least that’s what he did, but what did he actually say to do with the filets? I don’t know since I’m still at the speaking stage of “Sorry for mangling your beautiful French language” (“Désolé je parle français comme un enfant de 5 ans). And my listening skills require that I can say 5 different versions of “What, again?” involving the words “Désolé, répétez, encore, de quoi and huh?”. For example, I keep hearing the chef say a word that sounds like “terrorists” (tearwarweest to my ears) and as I try to figure out what he’s referring to I become more distracted as he “assassinates” (it’s what I hear anyhow) the fish. So did the chef use any of the following verbs to describe how to spice the filets?

• Assaisonner--not to assassinate but to season, dress with herbs, salt or pepper
• Saupoudre—Spinkle with such as sprinkle with grated cheese or bread crumbs
• Napper—to coat or cover something with a substance, typically liquid

The English description of the chef’s technique would have been dredged or coated for a thick layer of spice. In the kitchen, I mimic the demonstration chef and dredge one side of my fish. I also use this technique because the aromatics in the spice blend are stimulating me or at least my limbic system where the brain processes scents. Unfortunately, I am denied my spice high as our kitchen chef of the day tells me to just lightly sprinkle the spice mix on the filets. He explains that the delicate flavor of John Dory would be overwhelmed by too much of this spice.

He is correct in his comment regarding John Dory. Careful spicing applies to other mild flavored fish such as cod, flounder, haddock, pollock, skate, sole and hake, but really, sometimes you need to kick it up a notch. In my healthy cooking classes, I demonstrate several spice rubs for meats and fish because they add simple, fast flavors, limit salt and produce a lovely browned crusty layer. Generally I use fish such as cod, tilapia, trout and salmon because of availability and low cost. Here’s some spice rub suggestions and info on the satay and tandoori spices used.

Satay Spice: Typically Satay recipes focus on the satay style of preparing dishes instead of a specific recipe for the spice mix. According to our chef, the LCB blend included chilies, garlic, dried shrimp and peanuts. Other sources I’ve used indicate satay spice can also includes these ingredients plus sesame seeds and 5-spice (star anise, cinnamon, peppercorns, fennel and ground cloves).

Tandoori: Includes a wide variety of spices but typically ginger, cumin, coriander, paprika, turmeric, salt, cayenne. I’ve seen recipes indicating 1 teaspoon of each for a balanced mix.

My favorite quick fish Spice (for non-delicately flavored fish): for four filets, 1 Tablespoon each of cumin, chili powder (not New Mexican), paprika (Californian or Hungarian because Spanish smoked is a bit strong).

Here's the finished dish:

Wild rice with tropical fruit over garlic-scented spinach with mango, papaya and lime scented sauce. Or Effeuilleé de Saint-Pierre aux épices rouges, riz sauvage aux fruits exotiques.

Foreign Baguette Invades Paris

Bread was on my mind and in my luggage as I headed to Paris for my last semester at Le Cordon Bleu. I must be the only person ever to bring a baguette into Paris.

As my plane landed I wondered if airport officials would confiscate my baguette to protect the purity of French bread. After all, San Francisco sourdough yeast is showing up in French breads just like the invading English words peppering French TV and radio. But then I remembered that once again Parisians were on a grève (strike), so I just needed to worry if the airport was functioning.

The traveling bread was a French sourdough baguette hand-made by my husband who wanted to ensure I had good bread for my first few days in Paris. Finding a good baguette in Paris is random luck or local “know-how” for those with discerning palates.

I understand there was a time when consistent high-quality bread was more common in Paris. But with the proliferation of commercial and industrial bread making and distribution, bread offerings and standards have changed. I’ve experienced a regretful meltdown of my stereotype of gorgeous savory breads pouring from every shop in Paris.

Each time I’ve lived in Paris, I’ve worked hard to find consistent good bread; I’m not a bread snob, but I know bread making is an art and a science requiring quality ingredients. I’ve studied the science behind bread making and watched my husband labor for nearly two years to perfect different breads. And yes, hubby’s sourdough baguette is the best I’ve eaten, but I will keep eating more Paris bread to make sure and keep him on his baker’s toes.

Next post: how to spot a good baguette and boulangerie in Paris

Picture of husband Kerry's Sourdough baguettes and Pain de Compagne

This post is inspired by a request from Laura M for some pastries with delicious details.

Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here's a few pics of treats I've enjoyed.

Chocolate fondant with pistachio ice cream

Parisian-style frozen nougat

Gascon flaky apple tart

Tulip cookie with lemon emulsion which sounds better as Tulipe et son emulsion au citron de menton.

Chef took issue with our suggestion that this emulsion was a typical English lemon curd. He added that British cooking really had very little to offer and this was not English, but we still left the kitchen feeling it was a great lemon curd recipe.

Almond croissant and Pan au chocolate from des Gateaux de pain

des Gateaux du Pain is a owned by a female baker. Female bakers are not to common and there isn't really a feminine word in French for female baker.

David Lebovitz has pondered about this and suggested starting some such as...boulangesse?...boulangeuse?

Well, honestly this doesn't begin to cover the sweets I've eaten, but it's all for research right? Getting to know a culture through its foods is a job I take seriously--just don't ever ask me to make these. I'm a cook not a boulangeuse.

Here's a short review in French and reference in English to the boulangerie.
http://www.paperblog.fr/1225659/des-gateaux-et-du-pain-patisserie-et-boulangerie-paris-75/
http://www.monocle.com/webprogrammes/Quality-of-Life-Index/Des-Gateaux-et-du-Pain-Paris/

Food and French Mistresses

Today I made a dish either honoring a French King’s mistress or honoring French food lore--you decide. Many French meals have charming stories linked directly to famous events or persons.

I usually listen in awe when a chef reveals a historical food reference dating back 200 years. Perhaps my attraction to ancient food stories stems from the fact that most American dishes and desserts are descendents from other food cultures.


Last year a French chef’s food story transported me to June 14, 1800 onto the French battlefield with Napoleon Bonaparte’s chef who immediately after the bloody Battle of Marengo creates “Chicken Marengo”. Napoleon’s army has just defeated the enemies yet the horrors are not yet over; there is no butter, my god what does the French chef do? He creates a dish using olive oil, after all, they are in Italy.

This week it’s the story of Cotes D’agneau Champvallon revealing a sexy side of French culinary history. The chef relates that the mistress Champvallon of King Louis the XIV inspired this dish. Acclaimed Chef Daniel Boulud, of four-star restaurant DANIEL in New York, has a recipe for this dish and relates via several web sites that this dish was made by the mistress Champvallon to gain the king’s favor.

Unfortunately, when I researched this food-lover of kings, my fantasies were dashed as I failed to locate evidence of her. Apparently King Louis the XIV was a busy guy mistress-wise chalking up at least 14 officially recognized mistresses, none of them named Champvallon.

With the Chicken Marengo dish, food research related to this dish are included in many sources including Larousse Gastronomique , Oxford Companion to Food and The Illustrated History of French Cuisine. Several resources relate various dramatic details of the Marengo chicken event or deny that it happened. However, I prefer to recall the chef’s stories when I make these dishes as thinking about heroic and juicy food stories while cooking adds a little something special to the dish.

Here's Chef Boulud's version of Lamb Chops Champvallon (Serves 4)

You can prepare this regal version up to 3 hours in advance then reheat it slowly 15 to 20 minutes before serving.


Ingredients:12 lamb chops, 1 cm (1/2 inch) thick, trimmed of all fat. Salt, freshly ground black pepper, 15 ml olive oil, for cooking (1 tbsp), 60 ml sweet butter (4 tbsp), half of it melted, 2 large onions, peeled and sliced 1/8-inch (2 mm) thick, 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped, 2 sprigs fresh thyme, 2 bay leaves, 1.35 kg baking potatoes (3 lbs), sliced 2 mm (1/8 inch) thick, 750 ml chicken stock (3 cups), 2 sprigs parsley, leaves only, minced. Preheat oven to 160 C (350 F).


Use a thick copper pot about 4 inches deep and 14 inches in diameter, or a large roasting pan that fits all the chops. Salt and pepper the chops, heat the oil in the pan over high heat and brown on both sides for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the chops and set aside. Add 30 ml (2 tbsp) of the butter, the onions, garlic, thyme and bay leaves to the same roasting pan and sweat for 8 to 10 minutes (making sure the onions do not colour).


Put the potatoes in a bowl. Add the salt, pepper, onions, garlic, and herbs. Mix well. Brush the inside of the pan with 15 ml (1 tbsp) of the melted butter. Spread 1/2 of the potato/onion mixture evenly on the bottom of it, about 1/4-inch thick and include 1 bay leaf and 1 thyme sprig. Fit all the chops side by side over the potato layer. Cover with the rest of the potato/onion mixture. The top layer will also be 1/4-inch thick and include 1 bay leaf and a thyme sprig. Press down on the top layer with a spatula. Pour in the chicken stock until it reaches the top layer of the potatoes. Cut a piece of parchment paper the size of the inside of the pan to use as a lid. Brush it with the 15 ml (1 tbsp) melted butter and place it butter side down, covering the entire surface of the potatoes. Bake for about 75 to 90 minutes. The top layer should be light brown and the inside moist, with 1/3 of the chicken stock left. Discard the parchment, bay leaves, and thyme. PresentationSprinkle the dish with parsley, and serve from the pan.
(see http://www.frenchedonist.com/uk/archives-recettes/c.agneau.htm for more info)


Here’s some sites I use in addition to food history books:
http://www.foodtimeline.org/
http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodmeats.html#chickenmarengo (shows contrasting stories)
http://www.foodhistorynews.com/debunk.html#typology

Piperades and Chicken Tendons

We explored the French Basque Country with the dish Poulet Sauté Basquaise (Basque-style chicken) with saffron rice--see my plating with crispy Bayonne ham slices.

This dish is characterized by a Piperade which is boringly referred to as a "vegetable garnish" in our French recipe as is just about every vegetable mixture in our recipes.

A piperade is a Basque dish typically prepared with tomatoes and green peppers, onions (all colors of the Basque flag), olive oil and Espelette pepper which is cultivated in the Basque region. (see the link for more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Espelette_pepper

This spicy pepper and tomato sauce can be a side dish, stewing ingredient or garnish and is often added to scrambled eggs and omelets (see a basic recipe below).

Before making our “vegetable garnish”, we begin with the chicken tendons. For home cooks, this is a non-existent step in prepping a chicken. However, to torture yourself or serve more restaurant-style chicken legs, check this out:

• Carefully slice the skin at the back of lower leg join
• Tug on the large tendons that run the length of the leg down to the foot and claws.
• Hook the tendons with some tool, twist and pull (I used a ladle hook and pulled until I was red in the face)

The chef had commented or perhaps joked (I may have missed the French intonation) in class that the women should find a strong man to help them with this step; therefore, there was no way ever I was going to ask for help.

The first few attempts of pulling on the tendons caused the claws to retract painfully into the palm of my hand—a cool horror movie effect. I then moved onto removing each tendon separately rather than risk being offered help by the chef.

Basic piperade recipe:

Sweat 1 thin sliced onion in hot olive oil. Add 2 thin-sliced peppers (1 red and 1 green is nice). If you’re in France peel the pepper or roast it and pull off the nutritionally-dense skin and toss—French cooking is very sensitive to potential and perceived digestive food elements.

Add peppers to onion mix and 3-4 crushed garlic cloves. Let cook until softened.

Blanch 4 tomatoes--for technique see http://www.instructables.com/id/EOMPU43YZBERIE2LQH/ Slice thin and add to onion mix along with dried thyme, a bay leaf and espelette pepper (or some mild chili powder). If tomatoes are not particularly fresh or flavorful, add a pinch of sugar.

Cover and let cook for about 20 minutes and season with salt and pepper as needed (if in France, add gobs of salt if serving a French chef—see my previous blog about salt consumption in France at http://chezmichelerd.blogspot.com/2007/11/french-pinch-of-salt.html

Blowing Boudin Blanc...casings that is

Boudin Blanc aux Pommes

The chef placed the pig intestine sausage casings to his lips and blew. The sausage casing filled like a balloon for a clown’s animal sculpture. The chef then grimaced and wiped his lips clear of the juicy casing liquids and explained “here’s a trick for checking for holes in your casing”--yum; I’m thinking I can’t wait to try that trick.



Boudin blanc is a traditional sausage made from pork, pork and veal or chicken and pork fat (of course, since it’s sausage and it’s French sausage). Traditionally a Christmas food, it is now found year round.

I prefer boudin blanc to making boudin noir sausage which is 50% animal blood, but soon I’ll have to use blood in making coq en barbouille.


After checking out my casing, I decided to try the balloon trick without actually touching the guts part—kind of like giving mouth to mouth without any lip action; I was pretty effective—see my results.

I asked in class if there were any non-animal casing options and was told there were edible plastics. Some research revealed casings available from cellulose (cotton or wood fibers), inedible collagen and plastic but none of which can be consumed. There is an edible collagen from skins and hides, but I found no sources of edible plastic. So if you’ve heard of this unnatural animal, I’d appreciate any input.

Chef also said that serving apples with the sausage was traditional because the apples aided in digestion. Apples do contain tartaric and malic acids that can aid with digestion as well as pectin which is promotes probiotic bacteria in the intestinal tract.


I’ve listed the nutritional content for typical boudin blanc from a French website, but am suspicious of the low amount of saturated fat listed, but fully believe the generous sodium listed.

100 g (3 1/3oz)
Calories: 242
Protein: 10 gram
Fat: 20g (6.8 saturated)
Carbs: 5.5 grams
Sodium: 703 grams





http://www.i-dietetique.com/

Back at the Blue

I’m returning to Le Cordon Bleu having learned a few tricks for packing my knife kit. Here’s my top 10 for list of stuff to take or not take to school.

1. Waterproof bandaids with special fingertip styles (you know, to give to the other students)

2. Burn cream (again, of course, for other students)

3. Upgrade the knife kit with a real peeler and add a fish deboner and scaler, zester, heat proof spatula, mini-tart rings (for garnishes/sides) & diamond edge knife sharpener (removes less metal)
4. Nail polish or waterproof markers to brand your kitchen gear as yours (you’ll still loose stuff)

5. Plastic sleeves to protect class notes from the daily blood spray of chopping bloody animals or fish carcasses of some sort

6. Tupperware of some sort for leftovers that you don’t chuck and plastic baggies for leftovers when you’re too tired to clean your Tupperware

7. Change for coffee at the essential coffee vending machine

8. A camera for food photography such as macro setting, white balancing, high fstop and fast shutter speed

9. Keep at home: stain remover for that blood and guts rubbed in look. Try Ace Delicat brand wash soap and K2r spray for the most stubborn stains.

10. Keep at home: rings (even wedding rings sadly), earrings, any jewelry and face goo/makeup

Amsterdam Quickie

I wanted rijsttafel. I wanted it from the country of origin. So, off we went to the lively city of Amsterdam. Two days of eating our way through Amsterdam endeared us to several fried and baked delights, broodjes (Dutch Sandwiches), Dutch gin and our destination meal of rijsttafel.

This quickie visit included satisfying food pleasures, yet left a lingering guilt; food ruled over meaningful insight into Amsterdam culture. But a private tour did give us a nibble of history and a memorable slice of Amsterdam food culture.

We started with a “culinary” food tour. Our private tour guide, Carlota, explained the tour was “tongue-and-cheek” since Amsterdam isn't viewed as a European culinary destination. After eating Oliebollen, I may have to disagree. Who could pass by these rich “little pillows of heaven” (husband Kerry’s description), without scarfing one down and leaving a dusty coat of powdered sugar evidence on your clothes.

Oliebollen is a Dutch Krispy crème style donut without the super sugary coatings. This yeasty pillow has the appeal of a light fluffy interior with an al dente exterior and no greasy taste nor feel. Oliebollen is an appealing contrast to the typical cake style American donuts with the added benefit of some spices and dried fruits. For a recipe see the link. a recipe see the link. http://bakingfreakrecipes.blogspot.com/2005/08/oliebollen.htmlot.com/2005/08/oliebollen.html


Along the fried food themes, we also experienced croquettes at a Febo diner. Sort of a Dutch McD’s. Febo was launched in 1941 as an automatic “food-in-the-wall” delivery system. The company website lists over 50 shops in the Netherlands and is named after the founder FErdinand BOlstraat.

Our croquette had a crunchy exterior with a hot gravy meat-like filling. Perfectly acceptable for a student budget or fried food aficionados. As a dietitian and slow food support, I eat such foods as a pop-cultural food adventure, so I ate my croquette share on a dare, but passed on the burgers and fries.

Other fried temptations included street frites served typically with mayonnaise—I opted for curry ketchup. These were rapidly eaten while watching canal activity from a wooden bench—a “super bon” frites experience.

Carlota suggested we try some Herring sandwiches from one of the street stands. Herring isn’t in high season in November, but is still available. We found Henk’s Herring stand on a canal bridge and were given a soft smooth bun enveloping buttery-soft fish topped with sweet onions and slivers of pickle, just a complete wonder for 2.50 Euro.

Our guide also introduced us to poffertjes. These pancake style treats are baked over a hot cooktop in iron molds. We tried these several times and failed to get a picture because we couldn't delay the pleasure of eating hot, buttery dough puffs topped with powdered sugar. So, here's a picture from Noskos who permitted my use of it--see his recipe posted below.

The next morning we did broodjes for breakfast. Our wonderful B&B host, Paul, from rooms@bedandbreakfastamsterdam.net recommended several restaurants to fulfill our desires to eat good local food. At Lunchroom Diwi, our waitress and probably proprietress, spoke only Dutch to us, but we successfully managed to order egg broodjes with mounds of crispy yet substantive bacon topped with a perfectly fried egg hiding a soft bun. I ate the entire sandwich but hey it was really cold that day and my bodily thermogenesis to cope with the cold required more calories (I call this caloric rationalization).

We started our rijsttafel research before leaving the states by quizzing our friend Christiaan who is from Holland. Rijsttafel is a Dutch invention derived from Dutch colonization of Indonesia from 1602 to 1945. Rijsttafel (rice table) is like Indonesian tapas—small plates of mostly Indonesian influenced foods with rice.

Typically one is served 12-25 dishes including meats, vegetables, fish, satays and nuts and seasonings of coconut, peanuts, chilies, curry, lemon grass and fruits. Our first experience with rijsttafel was an event of contrasting flavors, textures and seasoning sensory overload.

We ate at a modern style rijsttafel place called Blauw (blue in Dutch). Opting to split one rijsttafel order was an exercise in gluttonous restraint and left us just enough room for desert. http://amsterdam.restaurantblauw.nl/content

We also fit in some gin tasting at a bar filled only with locals who loved our ignorance about gin and made happy, slightly tipsy comments about Obama's presidency. We had 3 glasses of gin at 1:00 in the afternoon on an empty stomach; we left the bar quite cheery and warm. Our guide ended our tour at a local bar for Belgium beer and a cheese plate with heavy dark breads. We spent 2 hours discussing culture, food and politics--the best kind of travel experience.

http://noskos.blogspot.com/2008/03/poffertjes.html
Poffertjes Recipe (abbreviated by Michele)

Sift 125 grams flour + 125 grams buckwheat flour. Proof 10 grams yeast in 100ml of lukewarm milk, make a well in flour and mix. Add 200 ml warm milk & a pinch of salt. Combine well and add 1 lightly beaten egg. Cover with plastic wrap & rest batter for 45 minutes in warm area. Heat the poffertjespan, brush some melted butter in mold and fill each halfway up with batter. When the poffertjes are dry at the edge and the bottom has a nice color turn them over until done. Noskos adds that he turns them over when part of the top is still liquid. Top with confectioners sugar.